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No. 111 · Feature · March 27, 2026 · 11 min read

The Sourdough Bakery That Became a Bar

A four-year operational pivot that worked, and the three decisions that almost killed it twice.

By the editor · March 27, 2026

The pitch was simple in 2022. A husband-and-wife team had been running a sourdough bakery for six years. Everyone in the neighborhood knew the bakery. The bakery was losing money. Their accountant — and I want to give the accountant credit, because the accountant was right — told them they had two options. Close the bakery. Or turn the bakery into a bar.

They turned the bakery into a bar. I know this because I have eaten at the bakery, drunk at the bar, and now eaten at what the bar has become. The space looks nothing like it did in 2022, but the original wood-fired oven is still there, and the sourdough is still on the menu — at $14, on a board, with rillettes.

What I want to walk through is not the pivot itself. The pivot is well-documented; a regional magazine wrote it up. What I want to walk through are the three decisions that almost killed it twice, because those decisions are the ones I think operators in the same position can actually learn from.

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Continued for subscribers

The first near-death decision was the choice to keep the morning bakery hours alongside the new evening bar program. They thought it would let them keep the bakery's customer base while building the bar's. What it did was put a single team on a sixteen-hour day and a payroll that no thirty-cover-a-night bar can absorb. They corrected this in month four…